Brewer Basin in Kings Canyon

sphinx50

From the ridge below the summit I looked back to see the way we came up the mountain, the small pond filled valley below, and part of South Guard Lake.


The Crux

Eventually we reached the crux and another decision to move on or not. Before us was a wall, and as far as we could see, only a small exposed notch led to the summit. We looked at it for a long time. Eventually, Dave went over for a better look while I looked on. Now, I am slightly acrophobic, so this was a very big deal to me. We were only 10 or so vertical feet below the summit, and I did not want to miss this, but I did not want to die either. Dave worked his way to the notch, and after much examination and hesitation (while I took pictures) he went on ahead and climbed up.
Great! I would soon follow. When I got to the notch I nearly wet my pants. I was standing on a small ledge by the notch, and over the ledge was a 2000-foot drop straight down. If I slipped and fell climbing the notch there was a good chance I would be taking a 2000-foot fall. Dave had made a gutsy move, but I knew from last year that even on easy terrain bad things could happen. Dammit! If I were roped in, this would be cake! I absolutely trust ropes having put in some time in climbing gyms. I have climbing gear at home. But this was an awesomely exposed Class 3 move with no protection! I backed down. I found a chimney nearby that seemed to offer a less exposed route upward. Using climbing moves, I worked up the chimney only to meet an impassable overhang. I should have headed further west and maybe found something better, but I returned to the notch and a worried Dave. I went up the notch a far as I dared, and saw how very easy the Class 3 move would be. But getting up was not my worry. Getting down was. As it was, Dave did not return that way. Again, and for the last time I backed down. I just did not want to end another trip on crutches, or worse. I had regained a great deal of my former confidence that I had the previous year before the accident, but the mental wounds had not yet fully healed. I would have to be happy with getting to within a few feet of the summit. But I am not. If we only had a rope...